The French Riviera
Sun & Style
The French Riviera rewards those who linger. From the grand sweep of Nice's Promenade des Anglais to the glamour of Cannes and the quieter charm of Antibes, this is a coastline that has captivated travelers for generations — and still delivers on every promise.
Nice
Hôtel La Pérouse is one of those rare finds — a beautifully appointed hotel with suites facing the sea, a terrace restaurant that makes it difficult to leave, and a location just steps from the winding streets of Vieux Nice. The Hôtel Westminster sits directly across from its own private beach, a classic address that has aged gracefully and remains one of the most well-positioned properties on the Promenade des Anglais.
Vieux Nice is essential — the old town's narrow streets, colorful facades, and the Cours Saleya market are not to be missed. The market runs daily with flowers, produce, spices, and souvenirs; on Mondays it transforms into a vintage and antique market worth an unhurried morning. The Petit Train de Nice winds through the old town and up to the château hill — a charming way to get your bearings and see the city from above.
Just along the coast in Villefranche-sur-Mer, the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is not to be missed — a Belle Époque pink villa perched between two bays with nine themed gardens, from French formal to Japanese, cascading down toward the sea. It is one of the most beautiful properties I have ever visited.
A Day Trip Worth Taking
Ventimiglia, just across the Italian border and easily reached by train from Nice, makes for a rewarding half-day out. The Monday market draws locals from both sides of the border for produce, clothing, and household goods. From there, the climb up to the medieval old town — with its castle ruins and fortress walls overlooking the sea — is worth every step. Bar Canada is the place for lunch — a no-frills local spot that has been feeding the neighborhood for years. My friend, who knows his Italian food, ordered the puttanesca and declared it the one of the finest he had eaten. That is recommendation enough.
Cannes
The Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic is the definitive Cannes address — five stars, directly on La Croisette, and exactly as glamorous as the city demands. The InterContinental Carlton Cannes is equally iconic — a Belle Époque landmark on La Croisette where afternoon tea is a tradition worth honoring, with a selection of patisseries that makes it difficult to leave. For dining, Il Grande at the Palm Beach Casino delivers an exceptional meal with the kind of setting that stays with you. La Villa la Plage offers a more relaxed afternoon — lunch overlooking the sea, the kind of meal that stretches pleasantly into the afternoon. Da Bouttau, the oldest restaurant in Cannes, is worth an evening for the history alone, and the food lives up to it.
From Cannes, Grasse is an easy and rewarding excursion — the perfume capital of the world, and home to Fragonard, where a guided tour of the gardens and a perfume workshop make for one of the most memorable afternoons on the Riviera.
Juan-les-Pins
Just along the coast from Antibes, Juan-les-Pins has a more relaxed, intimate character than its neighbors. Le Hôtel 1932 is a stylish, well-positioned property just minutes from the beach. Along the waterfront, the restaurants spill onto the sand. Chacha La Plage is the one to book — dinner with your feet in the sand, twinkling lights overhead, and the kind of warm evening that the Riviera does better than anywhere else on earth. In summer, the town hosts the Jazz à Juan Festival — one of the oldest jazz festivals in Europe, held beneath the pines along the waterfront.
Antibes
The old town of Antibes rewards an afternoon of wandering. The Musée Picasso, housed in the château where Picasso lived and worked in 1946, holds one of the most significant collections of his work in the world. The waterfront promenade and the market at the Cours Masséna are worth an unhurried morning before moving on along the coast.
Èze
Perched dramatically above the sea between Nice and Monaco, the medieval village of Èze is one of the most visited spots on the Riviera — and deservedly so. The views from the top are extraordinary, and the winding streets are lined with galleries and boutiques worth exploring.
Monaco
Small in size, outsized in every other way. The Fairmont Monte-Carlo is the address of choice — well positioned, impeccably appointed, and steps from the Casino de Monte-Carlo, the Grand Prix circuit, and the Prince's Palace. Dinner at Le Louis XV in the Hôtel de Paris is a singular experience — I sat there as the roof slowly opened above us to reveal a canopy of stars over Monaco. There are meals you remember for the food, and there are meals you remember for the moment. This was both. For a late evening, Jimmyz has been Monaco's legendary nightclub for decades. My father once found himself having cocktails there with Imelda Marcos — proof that on the Riviera, anything is possible.
The Weather
It is worth saying plainly: the weather on the Côte d'Azur is extraordinary. Plan accordingly — and plan to stay longer than you think you need to.
